Worst things you're doing with your smartphone

I have never faced a problem like this until I got an iPhone (coming from a dumbphone which lasted 9 days per charge for one thing ... *sigh*). The problem I'm talking about here is the effort required to ensure the safety and security of information on the phone. If you own any smartphone - be it an iOS, Android or other device - these are the things you should NOT be doing (with focus on iOS and Android). There are probably many more things that can be done, but these are top on my list of things:

Leaving your phone unlocked
Its a hassle to keep unlocking phones especially if you're the kind that keeps checking your facebook and twitter feeds every 2 minutes but this is your first line of defense if, heaven forbid, you lose your phone or it gets stolen. Androids typically have that pattern unlock screen whilst iOS has the PIN instead. Using the iPhone 5s, I am grateful for the TouchID fingerprint system because it represents the best of both worlds by providing simplicity of a single touch with the complexity of the PIN without having to lift my finger. The latest Samsung S5s also have the fingerprint scanner on the home button but it is not used for locking the phone and instead is only meant to app use (like verifying PayPal accounts) so that point is moot.

iOS devices have a deadmans option whereby if you enter a passcode or TouchID too many times it locks the device permanently. Additionally, you can opt to wipe the device if attempts to crack the device exceeds 10 times. Similar options exist on Android but they are crackable (or at least manufacturer/provider resettable).

Not backing up information
Smartphones are now multi-use devices and perform additional functions of a camera, music player, map, etc. Losing a phone usually results in a lost of a LOT of information that possibly is not replaceable (i.e photos and videos). Use your phone's backup function if available and save your heartache should anything bad happen. iOS has iCloud whilst Androids have Google drive - both free options which you should be exploiting to save your data ICE.

All major platforms are also now supported by Microsoft's OneDrive which will offer automatic uploads through the individual mobile platform apps. I personally use iCloud backups for phone settings and app data whilst OneDrive for iOS handles all my photo backups to my cloud (this because I have multiple legacy OneDrive accounts with 28GB of lifetime storage)


Setting up the GPS
Did a simple test - took a friend's smartphone, searched around and launched the map application. Nearly every single time, the map/GPS application had its 'home' setting to the phone owners actual home address. Now imagine if your phone is NOT passworded/passcode locked and someone manages to get hold of it, launching the app will tell them exactly where you live and gives them an easy target for their next heist (especially if you lost your bag with your phone, wallet, house keys etc). Get the picture?

Set the 'home' location to any app you are using (Google maps, Garmin, Waze etc) to a nearby location that you know of. I mean, do you really need that GPS to tell you turn by turn directions to your house from the nearest shopping mall that you visit weekly? Else, set it to a public location like a school, mosque, temple, 7-11 etc.

Address book/Contact list problems
Yes contact lists are convenient and make you lazy at forgetting numbers but here's a tip which has relevance with the first tip above. In the same test I mentioned earlier, the contact list ALWAYS had a listing for HOME, MAMA or PAPA or something along the lines like that. Now you've all heard or read emails about horror stories that someone's parents received a phone call telling them that their son/daughter has been kidnapped and demands a ransom ... where'd they get the number? Why from your unlocked phone inside your phone's contact list of course!! How nice of you to provide these nasty people with information like this.
If you REALLY need to list your parent or sibling's phone numbers (or any close relative) its best to list a nick name that only you know and understand. Be creative and have fun - but be prepared to answer your mother if you listed her in your phone book as 'Constant nagger'

Taking photos
Photos are fun. Photos are useful to capture a moment in time. Selfies are also fun. Nude selfies are NOT. A smartphone in the hands of another user other than yourself may result in your embarassing photos being leaked out. All devices (unfortunately) allow the photo directory content to be viewed in any computer without even having to unlock the device.

If you want to take nudes or unmentionables at least use a encryption app - there are dozens out there you can choose from that can give you a level of privacy which your default phone camera app cannot.

Leaving apps logged in
I suffer from this habit too as I tend to leave most apps logged in - but at least I lock my phone and set it to wipe if its being hacked into. Many popular apps keep you logged in even when you shutdown the app (e.g. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Flipboard) and anyone with access to your phone will basically have access to those app accounts too. Worst case scenario is with banking apps. I wich app developers would incorporate additional protection features to prevent this. The only one I know of is Evernote which has an additional PIN entry aside from the normal login to prevent anyone from viewing content so you can remain logged in. For other apps, its best to log out especially if you don't lock your phone.

Not installing an antivirus and app manager
This is for Android/Windows Phone devices only. Due to the open nature of the platform and also based on a phone owner's actions, an antivirus may be necessary. If you use an Android and often sideload your apps downloaded through fileshare/rapidshare/forums/etc, you should have an antivirus app installed to reduce the likelihood that your device will be infected with malware. Windows phone devices may run on a separate build as opposed to their desktop operating systems so the jury is out on whether it is needed or not.

For androids - even with the latest releases - app management is still horrendous.  You need a management app to help corral apps from misbehaving and making your device run out of resources. Always uninstall apps you never/hardly use because those apps WILL slow down the device even if they are not running (don't ask me how or why, I still can't figure that out yet)

Allowing apps to access facebook/twitter/etc
Once again, laziness makes people prefer use a single sign-in method to use an app. Many apps do allow you to link your facebook/google/microsoft account as a sign-in method and in return, the app is given permission to post on your behalf to your facebook/mail/google plus/etc page. Some apps like endomondo sports tracker and nike run can post on your behalf so you can show off to your facebook friends how far you have run and how long it took.

Unfortunately, this also reveals information similar to the GPS tip above. Using several posts, a stalker can pin point the exact location where you live because your start and end locations are always the same. Next, the app tells them when you are not home or when you ARE home. Personally, I wouldn't want an unknown person to know that. The right picture shows a screenshot of someone (I randomly selected a facebook user) who allowed EST to post on their page .... now I know where he lives and when he's not home.

Busy busy busy

Missed several week's posts because of the Chinese New Year + end of semester exam preparations + personal exams. Oh, and my PC decided to die on me in the most unceremonious way - it still works but all PCI-e slots are not working ... took me so long to figure that out. Luckily it fell back to its internal on-board GPU so at least it is currently still in a usable state with legacy unaccelerated graphics (on board only has a 7100nvidia GPU). Local service and support won't sell me the board on its own unless I bring it in and purchase with service fees so I have to look for alternatives. Seeing as it is a rather 'old' PC (CPU socket wise) its difficult to get good LGA775 motherboards anymore. Additionally, I realised further problems with buying a so-called branded PC ... the feature set found on this PC cannot be replicated on any commercial boards available for public purchase. Yeah, somehow Acer has designed this board with so many additional I/O options that if I buy an off-the-shelf motherboard, more that half of the PC's connectors won't work because they have nowhere to plugin into!

On its own, the mobo (which is an OEM MCP73) has 4 USB 2.0 + 1 IEE1394 ports on board. Then it has four (yup, 4) on board USB connectors to support the additional 4 USB ports on the casing top AND the card reader AND another USB port in front. Most boards only have 2 additional USB connectors. Additionally, the original board also has 1 additional IEEE1394 connector to the front firewire800 port. Looks like I have to scour ebay for refurbished boards else go without the ports. *sigh*

Other things that kept me busy was my new phone .... that will be for the next post.

DiGi Prepaid DIY nano sim

Since getting an iPhone, I was forced to look for nano SIMs but I'm a prepaid user and majority of local telcos are hesitant to provide a nano SIM unless you sign up for a postpaid package (money sucking tactics). There were two ways to get around it - first is to get a nano SIM cutter or at least someone who has it to cut the standard mini SIM . Buying a cutter is useless because I only need one card (I'm not opening a phone store) so wasting RM17 (cheapest I could find) for a single use item was out of the question. There were some shop/stalls offering the cutting service at a few ringgit but I never had my phone with me at those times.

So, I had to resort to cutting my own. After reading many horror stories about failed cuts online and other advice, I was initially hesitant ... but eventually, I took a leap of faith and cut my own since I basically had no choice. Here's what I did ...


Get a template - there are various templates you can print out to get cutting guidelines. Find one that you feel comfortable with and works with your printer and paper size. I used this one here. [UPDATE Sept 2014 - link is dead, search google for "nano sim template"]

Before doing the actual cut, I tried out on several expired SIM cards I had on hand for practice - I tested a Celcom xPax mini SIM, TMobile micro SIM, Optus mini SIM and Starhub mini SIM. It is easiest if you have a micro SIM (image top right) but it works just as well with mini SIMs (image top left) - with micro you don't cut across the gold contact points but you have to with a mini. Ask around for unused SIMs or mobile phone vendors if you wish to get some practice before hand.

The final cut was made on the DiGi prepaid mini SIM. All five attempts worked out fine anyways with a 100% hand-cut success rate.

My advice for those wanting to try manual SIM cutting - make sure your cutting tool is sharp and strong. Flimsy school paper scissors will NOT work. Large heavy duty cutters may work but are unwieldy and may block your sight from cutting on the correct line. To test your scissors, try sticking a piece of tape onto both sides of an expired credit card (or any SIMilar thickness plastic card) and test on that. The scissors should cut through the tape layers and the card between neatly with pulling or stretching the tape. If at any point this fails, you may want to look for a different tool.

The SIM standard specs are pretty forgiving and you can actually overcut (or undercut) quite a lot and the SIM will continue to work. The problem with overcutting is that the SIM will be smaller than the official nano SIM size and will not fit in the tray properly (this will make removal and insertion very difficult). So you could always UNDERcut and then sand the edges to size if you're worried. I overcut the Starhub card I tested with in the picture above and ended up with a nano SIM too small for the iPhone tray ... the SIM card still works on other phones if I tape it to the contacts though.

The thickness is the relatively same for most of the cards I tested so no sanding was necessary except for one which was ever so slightly thicker. YMMV

Disclaimer: Any attempts at cutting your SIM card are at your own risk. Cutting your SIM card may destroy it, damage your handset and void your handset's warranty and I will not be held responsible.
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Setup ... and wait

Yay! .... setting up it really taking so long - shouldn't have synced with my cloud. Oh well

OMG .... itchy fingers made me do it

In the last moments of the very first Asian Apple Store Lunar New Year sale ... I made a purchase. I feel a hole burning in my wallet liao

Unifi/Streamyx is IPV6 ready

As the world slowly begins its transition to IPv6, its funny that Telekom Malaysia has actually rolled out IPv6 features but not enabled them .... but then its not like there is any advantage of doing it yet.

If you're running on TM Unifi or Streamyx you can actually start using IPv6 on the network already. For example, if you're using Unifi on the defautl DIR-615 Gx router, the steps are as follows

Login to your router at the default address of 192.168.0.1 using a web browser (if you changed this, use the correct IP accordingly). You can use either the admin or management or operator accounts - all will work the same for this. Locate the first tab at the top for SETUP and then the left-hand side menu for IPV6 option. Then choose the option for "Enable IPv6 WAN connection"

Once enabled, choose PPPoE from the drop down menu (since SLAAC does not seem to be enabled at Telekom's end for now) and you'll see the options expand for account settings.

Choose to create a new session and then enter your Unifi account settings (the same as the ones found in the Internet setup page). Choose to "Obtain IPv6 DNS Servers automatically" for now else you can search for OpenDNS IPv6 options on Google.

Once that is done, click on the [Save Settings] button and then reboot the router. Upon completion of reboot, you can then proceed to the STATUS tab and view the IPv6 connection information if you logged on successfully.

You can then proceed to use any of the available tests online to check IPv6 connectivity. You'll see that you have dual-stack connectivity which means you are runnng both IPv4 and IPv6 simultaneously on the same network infrastructure without the need for any tunnelling.

So, why implement IPv6? There aren't many advantages or benefits to using IPv6 now unfortunately since majority of networks are running IPv4 but with IPv4 exhaustion already here more networks are expected to migrate soon. If you're an online gamer, there are reports that IPv6 will improve latency and routing times....so maybe you can try it out there and see if there is any change.

A 2014 resolution ... I hope

Its a new year ... and I decided I probably should be more actively writing my nonsense here. So I hope to be able to add a post each week or month at least (fingers crossed)

Finally a better firmware for default Unifi routers

Referring to an earlier post here, there has finally been an unofficial-official firmware to fix the DNS problem with the DIR615 routers. The firmware updates G2 routers to version 7.15 and finally forwards DNS requests correctly between the router and the users in the LAN (previous firmwares timed out on most DNS requests thus making most pages never fully load or just time out)

So, save your config (just in case, the update shouldn't delete settings but you never know) from the menu. Download the firmware from here and update using the administration menu. Tested on two routers to work better than the original (one was 7.12 the other was 7.13).

Awww ... even iTunes makes mistakes


*Sigh* - as advanced as Apple is, iTunes does make mistakes like the one above. It probably was a indexing error with their backend servers.

Ultraviolet DRM is terrible and I wish it would die

What is ultraviolet?
UltraViolet is a free, cloud-based digital rights collection that gives you greater flexibility with how and where you watch the movies and TV shows that you purchase. When you buy a movie or TV show from a participating retailer, it's automatically added to your UltraViolet Collection and you have options to stream it over the Internet and/or download it for offline viewing to a variety of connected devices. Because UltraViolet offers so many viewing choices, you have greater freedom to choose where you want to watch - on a mobile device, computer, television, game console, etc.

What was it intended for?
Uhm ... to replace iTunes (it is headed by Warner Bros) as another means to distribute movies digitally legally. Probably was meant as a way to avoid paying Apple more money and to torture customers with yet another DRM system.

What is good about UV?
Three things only - your movies are "in the cloud" and accessible anywhere (not really), movies are available online through streaming (broadband required to stream) or offline through downloads and content can be shared with friends and family. Thats it. Nothing else. Nothing else they advertised really works.

Why does it SUCK SO BAD?
Hmmm ... how do I put this as clear as possible ...
  1. You need multiple accounts to access your content
    First you need to sign up for an Ultraviolet account. You do that here. Once you have a UV account, you need to create ANOTHER account at EACH AND EVERY respective studio that is distributing using UV - e.g. I now have accounts created in the Sony Pictures Store, Universal Hi-Def, Flixster and Warner Bros ... so in total 5 new totally unnecessary accounts just to download my digital 'copies'
  2. It is difficult to view content
    It is IMPOSSIBLE to view any of your content without downloading their software or apps. To watch on your PC/Mac you download Flixster. Same goes with tablets, phones, phablets and whatnots. The downside of this? There is no way to show your content onto your living room TV or audio visual system short of connecting your computer to your display. At least with iTunes you can still get an Apple TV to view your content on the TV or use any iDevice with the proper av adaptor (hdmi/component/etc) to display content. Using a tablet/phone/PC as your player means you actually need to mirror the content onto the TV.
  3. Quality of UV is poor
    Overall video quality of UV distributed films ranges from good to really poor. Compression is noticeably higher than iTunes digital downloads and detail is often lost. Worst thing is that UV downloads are 2-channel STEREO only. Supporters may claim that this was intended because the digital downloads are meant for portable devices which is true but if iTunes digital downloads can provide both 2-channel stereo AND 5.1 channel surround, then I'd go for iTunes anytime because I like knowing that I can still pipe the full surround experience if necessary.
  4. UV tablet/phone applications suck
    The Flixster tablet app sucks on all the platforms I've tried it on. On the iPad, the app integrates with Rotten Tomatoes and shows current/upcoming/past movies which is actually rather cool. The movie download/streaming section though leaves a lot to be desired. Movies download with no problems but often remain in processing mode indefinitely. This means that the downloaded version can never play and if you attempt playback it will revert to the streaming version instead. In some cases, movies that were successfully downloaded, processed and can be viewed offline can suddenly revert back to its undownloaded state and will no longer work thus forcing you to delete the file and redownload. On android tablets, I've had even less success with the app crashing often and movies suddenly stopping for no reason.
  5. UV desktop applications suck more
    The PC desktop application is probably the weakest. I though iTunes was bad - UV is worse. Unlike tablet apps, the desktop PC version of flixster has no links and is purely for playback only. The software is not optimized and cannot playback video content unless the app is made full screen. In a window, the content jerks and frame rate drops dramatically thus making it impossible for you to have multiple applications open on your desktop so you can't watch a movie whilst check your facebook status at the same time.
  6. There is no easy way to backup files
    Unlike what the support website says here, there is no easy way to backup your UV digital movies. Digital content is downloaded as a binary file with no extension and a random string of alphanumeric characters (it is actually an mp4 file wrapped in their own DRM encoding). You can't really transfer this file anywhere because the target app you copy it into will not recognise the file. For every device you own and activate with UV, the file downloads with a different filename so it is impossible to map files between devices. D-U-M-B. They should have done it like iTunes where downloads happen as M4V files. Backup? Just copy the file out. Move to another PC/Mac/iPad/iPhone? Just copy the file in. No nonsense. No fuss. Compared to UV where I have had to download the exact same movie 4 times on 4 different devices just because their files are different.
  7. You can only buy/redeem movies on the PC
    Yup. STOOPID. For a distribution method supposedly meant for portable devices, there is NO WAY to get new content without going back to your desktop and logging into individual websites. Some of you might think that you can browse websites on the portable device so why not do it there? Nope. Impossible. Most websites I've been too won't work with tablet browsers. Either the pages won't load or your code won't work (even though the same code works when used in desktop)
So as much as possible, try to avoid UV like the plague until they give up trying to force consumers with another doomed format.